Yangon. On our third and final stop in the former capital of Myanmar we got to explore the city with new eyes. We had a couple of days to kill before flying back to Bangkok (one of three legal ways to leave the country.) Being both physically and emotionally exhausted after 5 and a half weeks in Myanmar, we took it easy and managed to have a good time.
We heard about an "amusement park" in the north of the city. Filled with Japanese, Korean, and Chinese arcade games, we spent a couple hours there letting off some steam, Asian style. The first three floors were depressingly lit, filled with 20-year old kiddie games. We couldn't imagine anyone amusing themselves in that space. However, once we climbed to the top, we found where the party was at. Seen above is Kara rocking out on some digital Japanese drums.
Dance Dance Revolution. Burmese style. The attendants inserted our coins for us and stood over us as we played.
We met up with our local NGO and friend contact, (who we will call Paul) one night with his family. They took us to the fantastically located and garishly decorated Karaweik Restaurant and Palace, located in the center of Kandawgyi Lake.
Live actors posed in traditional costumes of the Burmese ruling class at the palace. Nowadays the modern ruling class comes here to wine and dine their Chinese, Thai, and European business contacts and colleagues.
Paul was an extremely important and informative contact for us. He was candid about what was happening in his country and offered us a rare perspective into where progress was being made. Not all members of the government are bad, he says. Many of them can be convinced to bend or break the rules when they see that lives are in the balance, especially when its a fellow Burmese convincing them instead of an international diplomat. Paul stressed that it was unfortunate, yet imperative at this juncture for NGOs to work with the government, developing personal contacts and making the best of a bad situation. He believes that working with the rank and file is the only way for NGOs to work effectively in his country at this time.
His practical positivity was a good note to end our trip on, yet even by his most optimistic estimates, Myanmar still has years, if not decades to go before the regime will be squashed. Paul is an inspiring personality who has sacrificed chances of emigration and a better life outside of his country in order to fight to improve the lives of his countrymen.
Durian Face! Though considered a delicacy and called the "King of Fruits" in all of South East Asia, Kara does not like this fruit one bit. This foul-smelling, spiky yellow pulp leaves a long lasting impression for one's taste buds and olfactory organs. It smells faintly of propane and tastes like caramelized onions in fruit form. Above is Niels, our Canadian friend who convinced Kara to try it.
Graffiti, Yangon style: "Rapper." Just rapper. We were glad to share this experience with a fellow North American.
Myanmar is the only other country in the world outside of the United States that calls football "Soccer." Bizarre. Since Thailand, we had read about Myanmar's new professional soccer league, who has been allowed to recruit players from Africa and South America. The teams are also sponsored by private corporations, an innovation in Myanmar sports. Here is Max, routing for Yangon United Football Club.
Kara and Max sport YUFC headbands on the home team side of the stadium. It was a torrential downpour for more than half of the game. Yangon won against "The Delta," in what we dubbed as the "Cyclone Series."
Looking out at downtown from the tallest building in Yangon.
After 6 consecutive weeks of physically and emotionally struggling through this country, we were finally ready to leave. We left Myanmar not knowing what to feel or say about our experience. There is so much more to tell. When people ask us, "Myanmar, wow, how was that," we usually look to one another and take a deep breath, knowing that our answer can not be stated simply. What we do always say is,
Go to Myanmar.
Talk to the People.
Bring your knowledge
Take Back Their Stories
And Tell The World.
-Max and Kara
4 comments:
Basically, I can't figure out how to feel about this post because it was obviously hard to write about your time in this country and it touched you both profoundly. Having not been there, I can't understand, and I like how you charge readers to go there, and talk to the people.
Mostly though I really loved learning that Myanmar also calls soccer soccer. And seeing Kara eat the durian, was almost as priceless as seeing you two at a sporting event so enthused. We are going to a NY sporting event upon your return, probably hockey. Get ready.
Still keeping an eye on you -- I can't wait hear the stories in person. The photos are great, the writing is witty, and it looks like a wild trip!
I love that you went to a footfall game and an arcade! Way to experience the real life there! I am so glad you are not there now! xoxoxoxox
where is my pic in sarnath with both u ?
sandeep sapkale
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