DMZ and Central Vietnam. War Tourism: There's Nothing Cute About It.

Hello from Central Vietnam---

We took an overnight train from Hanoi to Dong Ha, which is the closest town to the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) at the 17th parallel. Most people stay in nearby Hue (the ancient capital of Vietnam, and take a day trip out to this area where they are carted around to war memorials, bases, and museums in the area. Typical war tourism package. We decided to stay in Dong Ha so that we could take a couple days to learn about one of the most important areas in Vietnam during the war. We rented a motorbike and toured the sites on our own time, being careful not to stray too far off the beaten path because there are unexploded land mines and bombs that still kill people from time to time. On our first day, we drove out west, towards the border with Laos along Highway 9, which was one of the most important, if not the most important supply road for the Americans, and later the Vietnamese. The landscape along the way is gorgeous, and on first glance the lush vegetation, rice paddies, and rolling hills do not betray any signs of the recent conflict. Though once you look closer, you can see where newly planted rubber and coffee plantations have replaced napalm scars and bomb craters. We rode about an hour and a half to Khe Sanh, where the American soldiers at the well established base were essentially driven out by the NVA (Northern Vietnamese Army) guerrillas after fierce battling. For weeks the hilltop base was shelled by guerrillas in the surrounding low lands while American Marines returned fire and carpet bombed and napalmed the whole area. After horrendous casualties on both sides, that left over 10,000 dead, the base was evacuated in one day by over two hundred American helicopters. This was seen as a turning point in the war and a sign that the war would not be so easily won by America.


On the road to Khe Sanh. Kara drove the first leg. Max sported the pink helmet. Kara really wanted it, but it was too big for her head.

Overlooking The Rockpile, which we have since learned served as an R and R base for soldiers who had "done good" and had a few days of leave. The base was replete with a Catholic Church, Baptist Chapel and open air drug market. We know this for a fact because we are currently staying with a South Vietnamese fighter, Thien, who worked with the Americans and had been to the base several times. The Rockpile was on top of an incredibly steep hill so it didn't have to worry about defending from NVA attack. Thien said that while the Americans had "ice cream, marijuana, the Monkeys, and heroin," the NVA had "rice, guns, and the will to fight for their land." Thien owns a "guesthouse" and "cafe" called the "DMZ cafe" here in Dong Ha. While he fought for the South and was sent to a "re-education camp" for 6 years, he still seems to have respect for the North Vietnamese fighters. We are very curious to hear how Vietnamese who fought on opposite sides live together in modern day Vietnam, but so far people are cagey about their feelings. However, it is clear that Thien does not support the Communists. Thien's son was sponsored by a US Marine and now lives in Cleveland, Ohio. We are thankful for his stories and hospitality.

Looking out at the Rockpile.

The area surrounding Khe Sanh.

More looking out.

The museum at Khe Sanh.

The museum was focused on the triumph of the NVA, seemingly ignoring the tragic loses on both sides. In the guest book, we saw that many Marines who had fought here have come back with mixed feelings about the preservation of the area.

Second day in Dong Ha/DMZ area.

Driving through newly planted rubber plantation. This is the first time that both of us had ever seen rubber trees being harvested.

Rubber sap. When you roll the sap between your fingers, it quickly takes the form of eraser shavings. It was incredible to physically relate the rubber that we know (rubber bands, erasers, tires, etc.) to the natural product of this tree because we usually think of rubber as such an industrial, man-made product. But then again, everything "man made" really does come from the Earth.

Frustrating part of day. We spent about 2 hours looking for the Con Tien Firebase, which was part of the "Macnamara Line," intended on sealing the border between the North and South. Getting stuck in the mud was the last straw and we decided to move on. Everytime we asked someone where the base was, we were told it was in the direction we just came from. EVERYTIME. We know approximately where it is.

We did find, however, the monument at the base of Dien Moc, another point in the Macnamara Line.


Vinh Moc Tunnels. One of the clearest monuments to the resilience of the Vietnamese people and honestly one of the most amazing things we have ever seen, ever, in our lives. From 1965-1972, this coastal village of approximately 400 people literally dug in to survive the carpet bombing intent on bringing the area back to the Stone Age. Half a million tons of bombs were dropped in a 800 square kilometer area over the course of approximately eight years. The tunnels included housing, wells, meeting halls, food and ammunition storage. More than being just bunkers to hide out, they were centers of both social life and military and party activity throughout the war. There was even a maternity ward, where 17 babies were born. We met one of these babies, who is now severely retarded, when we were visiting the museum at the tunnels. Vinh Moc is just one example of the extensive network of underground villages in the area that were coordinated by the people and the NVA. The total length of the network spanned over 40 kilometers. The tunnels, all dug without the use of modern machinery were planned on three levels: 8-10 meters, 12-15 meters, and 23 meters deep. Walking through the tunnels was a very surreal experience.

The trench system that was a precursor to the tunnels. Once the American Military bombardment became even more severe, the people quickly realized they needed an even more extensive and drastic form of defense. The trench system connected major towns. Though very small in width, we have seen pictures of people riding bikes through them.

One entrance to the tunnels. This one lead out to the ocean. There are extremely spiky palm trees that cover many of the entrances. We do not know if these were intentionally planted in front of the entrances, or if the trees are native to the area. Either way, they hurt.

Looking up from a tunnel.

Laying down in a area where a whole family lived.

Bombshelter.

Replicas of a small family living in the tunnels. This scared the shit out of us when we turned the corner.

Though they are now essentially void of human remains such as beds, instruments, machinery, etc, Kara found that there was an energetic, palpable human presence down below. While Kara was struck with the horror of such an existence, Max's reactions were more focused on the resourcefulness and resilience of these villagers-cum-freedom fighters. It also brought him back to fantasies of digging tunnels as a child.

There were some bats flying around in the tunnels in areas that were not lit for tourism. We had our headlamps to light the way so we could see more of the tunnels. The lit areas take about 15 minutes to walk around. We spent a couple hours in the tunnels, and saw as much as we could. This bat family where a human family once lived. Max took this picture and is very proud to have captured the bat in flight.

Kara is on a good day, 5'2''. She is pictured standing in the "meeting room," where the residents of the tunnels held party meetings, military meetings, and sometimes film screenings and concerts to keep up the morale. This is one of the largest openings and spaces in all of the tunnels.

Driving back from tunnels. Minor road block.

Monument at Hien Luong.